Maine Backcountry .Com

 
 

Fifteen years ago, a young british fellow contacted me and others about writing a rock climbing guide book to western Maine. He promised us a lucrative payoff, fame, and fortune. At first I was suspicious,

but soon he coaxed me into drawing up some cryptic topos and writing up a few lengthy route descriptions of

all I knew. Most, but not all, were new routes I’d put up and climbed with others, or were existing routes I climbed but knew nothing about, No sooner had I delivered the “goods” to him when suddenly he

disappeared, moved out west, and I never heard from him again. ( taking all the work with him ).


Although I’m sure that some of the info has leaked out over the years I still get a few mysterious phone calls now and then seeking the beta for a crag or two. This winter I stumbled over the “old book” and maps ( Maine Climbing ) that I had kept during the 80’s and 90’s. I’m sure some of this information on this web page

my be redundant, or incorrect, however most of it good. It may take me awhile to organize and download it, but I’ll give it a try. Some info is already out there ( There are well over 25 crags. ). Crags such as Shagg already have more and better info than my original descriptions and maps. This is not intended to be a guide, it is just a review of my travels to some of Maine’s remote crags.


Times have changed since the 80’s and 90’s. Access may be different, Fixed pro may have rusted away, Trails and paths that were once vibrant have overgrown and many classic clean lines have become dirty or have grown lichen. ( remember this is northwestern Maine ). However, the rock and routes remain the same, and if your ready for some new scenery or a change of pace go have a look.




 

A review of a few climbing areas

Maine Rock

A Few Maine Crags

Vance Benoit - Shagg

The Great Slab - AMC Route, Tumbledown

Brian Delany - Family Wall, Shell Pond

Mari Baker - Rock O Dundee

Steve Dyer - thin crack climbing - Pulpit Rock

Above: Roland Fortin - Taber Wall - Baxter State Park

Below: Randy Baker at the Exterminator - Ripogenus Gorge

Disclaimer

And the really remote

Above: Evan’s notch and the Mahoosucs                                                          Below: The Sleeping Wall

Above: The Guillotine         Below: Northern Maine

Rock Climbing is a extremely dangerous sport; There is no room for a mistake. Falling in any form can result in injury or

even death. Falling rock ( everywhere in Maine ) can be even more deadly than falling. This web site is not a guide, many of the pictures and information used on this site are over 20 years old and may be inaccurate. Use your own judgement

when rock climbing in conjunction with this site. The user assumes all risks associated with use of this site.

Hazards: Left: A detached slab

ready to go

Right: Frayed rope after a fall

Below: Bad anchors: don’t trust

some one else’s work; rotten rap slings ( everywhere in Maine).

Bottom: Falling rock

Warning: Read This:

All Site Photos by Randy Baker